Frustrated with struggling to hold the wheel in place, align the lug holes, and insert the lug bolts? Wish you had an extra hand? Whether you are rotating tires, or swapping wheels, wheel hangers studs can help.
With a working length of 87mm (3.4") it works for factory wheels, custom wheels with deep lug holes, and with most wheel spacers.
There are two methods you can use. The common method uses just one stud in the highest lug hole. Sliding the wheel over the hub helps align the lug holes.
I've found that it is even easier with two studs in opposite lug holes. The wheel slides on easier, and the holes are aligned.
Detailed instructions for each method below:
Two Stud Method
Jack up the car as you normally would. I prefer putting it up on four jack stands.
Remove one lug bolt from the wheel and replace it with a wheel hanger stud. It doesn't mater which lug bolt you start with.
Remove the lug bolt that is farthest from the first wheel hanger stud. Insert a second stud into the hole.
Remove the other two lug bolts and slide the wheel off. The studs will keep the wheel from falling as you remove the last lug bolt.
If you are rotating tires skip the swapping wheels section.
Swapping Wheels
If you are swapping wheels, you can slide the new wheel on the studs, put two lug bolts in the empty holes and tighten them enough to hold the wheel to the hub without movement.
Remove the studs and replace them with lug bolts. Tighten the bolts just a little firmer than the first two.
Starting with one of the first lug bolts, and going in an X pattern to the farthest bolt from the current one (when possible), tighten all the bolts in several steps. Finally, torque them to 103 ft-lbs. If they are new wheels, you will want to re-torque them after driving 40-100 miles.
Rotating Tires
If you are rotating tires, you would have to remove a second wheel to put in place of the one you just removed.
There are several different strategies you can take. My preference is to use another set of studs on the other wheel. Another way is to just remove the wheel without studs. A third way would be to remove the bottom stud from the hub and use it on the second wheel. The forth strategy would be to remove both studs from the hub and use them on the second wheel.
When you have the second wheel removed, roll the wheels to the hubs they will be going onto. If you have directional tires (there should be a large arrow on the sidewall indicating direction of rotation) use the pattern indicated by the green arrows in the tire rotation patterns image.
If you have non-directional tires, you can use the cross pattern indicated by the yellow arrows.
At this point, slide the appropriate wheel onto a hub with two wheel hanger studs.
Put two lug bolts in the empty holes and tighten them enough to hold the wheel to the hub without movement.
Remove the studs and replace them with lug bolts. Tighten the bolts just a little firmer than the first two.
Starting with one of the first lug bolts, and going in an X pattern to the farthest bolt from the current one (when possible), tighten all the bolts in several steps. Finally, torque them to 103 ft-lbs. If they are new wheels, you will want to re-torque them after driving 40-100 miles.
Repeat to mount the other wheels.